Two weeks ago Mr Boo and myself headed to Barcelona for a week of relaxation. We had been there 6 years ago and little did I know Mr Boo had a little surprise for me back then. One evening as I was about to get stuck into a chocolate mousse in Les Quinze Nit a little box was proffered across the table towards me and the sparkly treasure within has been in proud residence on my finger ever since. It even has a little buddy now! This was our first trip back to Barcelona since then and I had forgotten quite what a wonderful city it is.
The very table in Les Quince Nit on Placa Reail where we got engaged in September 2004
We stayed in Chic and Basic hotel on Carrer Princessa in the El Born district. The hotel is very centrally located. A five minute walk from Las Ramblas but far enough away to avoid the hustle and bustle of the tourist traps. It is surrounded by residential apartment buildings so you get a better feeling of being immersed into the local culture. The balcony from our room overlooked a courtyard and faced onto the balconies of private residences. As we pottered about our room in the evenings getting ready to go out for dinner the sounds of locals settling in for the evening or getting ready to go out to party wafted through the open doors.
The hotels name describes it perfectly, it is indeed chic with beaded lights that change colour adorning rooms and hallways and minimalist decor throughout. This modern decor is offset against the many original features preserved throughout the hotel. Our room had a beautiful decorative door, intricate coving, fabulous high ceilings and an arched door way leading to the balcony. A perfect marriage of old and new has been achieved by the designer and I think it would suit many tastes.
The main feature of each room is a large curved glass shower that dominates the middle of the room at the foot of the bed. This is draped with beaded lighting to conceal your modesty and beyond that is a separate bathroom. Each room has a remote control to set the lighting to a colour suitable to your mood at any given time & an electric blackout blind from ceiling to floor did it's job each night. At the end of the corridor that our room was on is a common area complete with fridge stocked with complimentary bottled water, a Nespresso machine, tea making facilities and a PC with free Internet access and free wi fi. It was a light and airy space, ideal if you fancied a coffee while catching up on emails and the complimentary water was most welcome after a few tasty beverages of an evening. The staff in the hotel were all very friendly and helpful and it was spotless at all times. I would most definitely stay there again if I return to Barcelona.
Chic and Basic Hotel, El Borne District, Barcelona
Once we had checked into the hotel, and smothered ourselves with SPF 50, we set out into the heat and sun. Yes my fellow Irish nationals, the sun actually shines in other countries in September, and would you believe me if I told you temperatures reach over 30C. Honest to God. Mr Boo was starving, naturally, so we popped into a little bakery not far from the hotel for a bite to eat. With his belly full we set off on a little stroll around the city, walking the length of the beach, and back again. Needless to say once we showered and beautified ourselves that evening we were starving! We decided to check out a recommendation from Mr Boos brother and so wandered off Placa Reail to Los Caracoles (snails) for their house special rotisserie chicken. It did not disappoint. I don't think I have ever tasted a nicer roast chicken. EVER. My mouth is watering right now just thinking about it. The Sachertorte was pretty good too. Wah?! I was on me holliers, desserts are mandatory.
Los Caracoles (or the chicken place as my brother in law calls it),
off Placa Reail, Barcelona
The next day we decided to stroll up to Las Ramblas and visit Mercat de La Boqueria to buy a picnic to enjoy in Parc de la Ciutadel, situated a stones throw from our hotel. We had great fun watching some of the street performers that lined Las Ramblas and the reactions of startled passers by who fell foul of their mischief. Then we headed across the street and into food heaven. We had great memories from our previous visit to Barcelona of buying fresh bread rolls filled with parma ham, and juicy melon to take with us to the beach and were both keen to get back. I would have given my right arm as I strolled around to have been staying in an apartment with a fully functional kitchen so that I could have tried some of the fresh veg and seafood on offer. The market was a hive of activity each time we visited and it is such an amazing resource, something we are badly lacking in many parts of Ireland in my opinion. I took a few little pictures to show you the delights within.
Las Ramblas and it's street performers,
some pretty little flowers for sale from one of many floral stands
and Casa del Paraiques(House of the Umberella)
Some of the wonderful fresh produce available from
Mercat de La Boqueria,
Las Ramblas, Barcelona
That evening we ate in one of the restaurants in the marina. For some reason I don't have any photos (obviously tucked straight in before I remembered) but the food was amazing. Afterwards we headed to Tapas Royale, a very nice cocktail bar. One mojito later and I was well and truly fooked. We had shared a bottle of Cava over dinner so I hadn't really consumed enough alcohol to be in the sorry state that I was but we were to discover the reason for this on Saturday night. As we were leaving Mr. Boo declared that he was "starviiiin" and by happy coincidence we passed a pizza place about 5 seconds later. €2 bought him a huge slice and it was absolutely delicious and just enough to tide him over until sleepy time. I crawled into bed and prayed for sleep or death, I wasn't fussy at that point, just whichever came first would do.
The following day we purchased our little picnic for lunch again and took the Bus Turistic to Parc Guell to admire some of Gaudi's handiwork. We had missed it on our last trip and so I was excited to see it this time. We passed La Pedrera(Casa Milá) and Sagrada Familia on the way but didn't stop to tour them as we had done so on our previous visit. La Pedrera is stunning and well worth a visit. Sagrada Familia again is stunning and an amazing feat of architecture but I am not so sure I would waste a couple or hours climbing the towers again. You climb up behind a gang of arthritic aul wans going at a snails pace, walk out onto the foot bridge and back down behind the same gang of arthritic aul wans who by this stage are knackered following the climb up the stairs. Take some pictures from the outside and then go find a nice placa somewhere and enjoy a nice glass of cava. Alternatively adopt a friends attitude and say, "Is that it? Bring me back when it's finished. I'll be in that bar over there." We got off the bus and climbed the (extremely) steep hill to the park where we spent a lovely few hours wandering around and feasting on our picnic.
Parc Guell, La Pedrera and Sagrada Familia
Mr. Boo was determined to take in a match whilst we were there and what with me being such a kind hearted soul I sacrificed one evening of MY holiday to grant his wish. Barcelona F.C. were due to play a la Liga match against Hercules on the Saturday evening so we bought a couple of tickets to shut him up. That plan didn't quite work as he then decided to tell me at every opportunity that they are probably the best club team in the world and that Messi is a genius and that zzzzzzzzzzzzz. Oops sorry I must have nodded off for a second there. As I was so selflessly giving up one whole night of MY holiday he was warned that he had better bring me somewhere nice for a slap up lunch. He didn't disappoint. We strolled back down to the marina to la Gavina. This was another recommendation from his brother and it didn't disappoint. He advised that we go the the "third place in the marina for the prawn tempura", he trailed off then as he started to drool. I understand fully now. Mr. Boo ordered the prawn tempura and I ordered mussels to start, well you could have fed a family for a week on the portions they were so generous. The mussels were delicious but the prawn tempura was just perfection. Large tender prawns encased in a delicate tempura batter accompanied by a simple soy sauce for dipping. There was plenty of lip smacking to be heard so apologies to our fellow diners. Both mains were delicious also and when we were leaving we made a reservation to return on our last evening for another helping of the tempura.
La Gavina, Marina del Mar, Barcelona
With our tummy's suitably stuffed we did a little dash back to the hotel to change into more suitable match attire. Once changed we headed out to catch the subway to Camp Nou to see Barcelona trounce Hercules (they have only just been promoted from a lower division). The atmosphere in the Nou Camp was fantastic, lots of families out enjoying a match in the evening sunshine. Mr. Boo was like a little kid, sitting there on his wonky seat taking in everything. He was positively beside himself when the 'genius' Messi finally trotted onto the pitch. We joined in as best we could with the Catalunyan chants and as the match heated up a little I got swept up in the spirit of things and shouted such encouragement as, "Go on my son", and, "That's a good lad, now bring the ball forward and put it in the net". It would seem there was another Irish lady in the vicinity who was shouting out shocking profanity's at the lagging Barcelona side. I am just thankful that the majority of the locals couldn't understand the language she was screaming. I couldn't repeat it here as I wouldn't want to offend anyone. An appalling 5-0 defeat from Hercules and the entire stadium stood and applauded the crushed home team and left the stadium in the same high spirits they arrived in. A thoroughly enjoyable evening, just don't tell Mr. Boo I said that, I'm still putting the guilts on him!
Barcelona -v- Hercules, Camp Nou, Barcelona
When we got back to the city Mr. Boo again declared he was, "starviiiiiin", so we headed for a tapas and oyster bar we had passed each day that looked pretty scrummy. They have both tapas and an a la carte menu. We ordered from the a la carte menu and were very impressed and returned a couple of days later for a little afternoon snack of tapas, this did not disappoint either.
Orios Tapas and Oyster Bar, Barcelona
From here we headed back to Tapas Royal for some more cocktails. I ordered a non alcoholic mojito as I didn't fancy another evening of lying in bed praying for death. As we sat at the bar and watched the mixologist make up Mr. Boos mojito all became clear. She mixed a white rum with a gold rum and easily poured 5 or 6 measures into the glass. I was drunk just looking at her! One mojito later and he was finished. Yet again he had the munchies so as we passed a sweet shop that was still open he dragged me in to stock up on biscuits for a midnight feast. In his drunken state I decided to take advantage and so piled his arms high with yummy florentines and a pretty biscuit tin, €45 later we headed back to the hotel and enjoyed Nespresso's and scummy biscuits.
La Cure Gourmande, Barcelona
The rest of the holiday was spent strolling through the streets of the city, browsing the stands of antique and craft markets, sitting in placas sipping cava, eating, lazing on the beach, eating, sipping cava, eating, sipping cava, eating. I really enjoyed our week in Barcelona and am raging it took us so long to get back there. It is right up at the top of my to do list, well just after a trip back to New York, and maybe a little break in Paris, and I really do want to go see a show in London. Hmmm, I will definitely get back there at some stage and I hope it is sooner rather than later.
Art i Sa, Placa Reail, Barcelona
Marina del Mar, Barcelona
